We have been living in Hanoi, Vietnam since mid-January, just about 5 months now. And I am finally getting around to updating you all on our wonderful (kind of) living arrangements. As many of you know, our house is selected for us from a housing pool, based predominantly on family size. We requested an apartment in the middle of the Old Quarter (middle of the city center). Which, looking back on it now, was probably a bit ambitious considering the size of our family compared to the size of available apartments in Hanoi. We requested an apartment because we were afraid of being relegated to the suburbs, which in Bangkok are quite far from the hustle and bustle of the big city–and Thai culture. If we are going to live abroad we want to actually experience the city and local life. In Bangkok, even large families can be accommodated in large apartments. The same is not true here in Hanoi. A good lesson that not every overseas posting will be the same.
We were placed in a large house in Tây Hồ (West Lake). This was the perfect location and house for us — a large four story, six bedroom, four bathroom house in the middle of a busy expat community at the northwest corner of Hanoi.
The house is spacious, a good change for us–we had spent four months living in a temporary two-bedroom townhouse in Alexandria, Virginia prior to our move, waiting to be cleared to travel and dealing with COVID. However, there was quite a lot we were not prepared for:
- Things break. Like, a lot. We have been through a few water heaters and a couple air conditioners and had quite a few minor repairs (water leaks, no water, broken fans, etc).
- The humidity and pollution are intense, every room has an air purifier and dehumidifier, which means a constant thrum of electronics and ambient noise.
- The house has 12 foot ceilings and is made of concrete and rebar. If you try to hang a picture on the wall, you are drilling through concrete, good luck! Command strips are a girl’s best friend.
- EVERYTHING is tile. Tile. Tile. Tile. And laminate wood. I miss my carpets.
- Closets don’t exist in Hanoi. Like the concept of a closet. Full stop.
The house comes pre-staged with government issued Drexel brand furniture. Originally, we had two living room spaces, four bedrooms, two spare basement rooms, and a dining room. Our pre-staged master bedroom was incredibly tiny and barely fit the issued queen bed. We knew we had a king bed (a true necessity) coming in our personal property shipment. Luckily, we were free to move furniture around and utilize the space however we would like. We reorganized our space to have three bedrooms, an office/Lego room (yes, lego room), a playroom, and a gym. We changed our second living room into our master bedroom and our initial master bedroom into a sort of walk-in closet/dressing room (with four large wardrobes–remember, no closets) and a connected bathroom.
I had wanted to take “before-and-after” photos for the big reveal. But, as usual, I didn’t think far enough ahead. So, yeah. Only did that for one room. It would have been fun though!
We also got quite a few things custom-made, locally. We had slipcovers made for most of our Embassy issued chairs and couches. I just didn’t think we would be able to make it three years with the deep red. The slipcovers really help lightened up the room. My favorite piece in the house is beautiful hand made bar cabinet we designed and selected for our living room.
We also had a man, colloquially called the “Plant man,” come and provide an estimate on indoor and outdoor plants. He surveys the residence and (based on light, layout, and feng shui) provides a list of possible plant options with cost estimate. He then delivers the chosen plants via motorbike–the only valid way to ship anything in Vietnam.
And now, on to the rest of the house…
Master bedroom (formerly the second living room). The piece above the bed is a large fabric embroidery purchased cheap in Old Quarter. We were able to custom frame it, for cheap, at a local shop on “frame street” (Nguyen Thai Hoc Street).
My favorite room is probably the “babies’ room.” Two babies, one room: what could be better. I tried to go with a black and white theme with subtle pops of color. But its pretty hard to have “themes” when you don’t pick the house or the furniture…
If you are wondering where our other four children sleep. Well, good question! They share one bedroom (by popular request) and have been placed in a large room on our top (fourth floor). Once we moved the kids into this room, it became clear that it used to be a large roof-top deck (which are quite common in Hanoi), but the deck was converted at some point into to a large tile-floored room. I believe the previous occupants used it as a playroom/art studio. It is exceptionally large and well lit. Also, has space for an indoor bounce house…
I promised myself I would never break and buy a bounce house. But heat and pollution changed my mind. It’s a good add and kid approved.
One of my favorite little “add-ons” is the kids’ reading nook, located in the hall between the nursery and kids’ room.
Finally, some miscellaneous areas: the Lego room (yes, the thought of cleaning up all those Legos makes me break out in hives–but its a real hit with Jack), the playroom, master bedroom hall, and basement gym.
And, of course, our favorite addition to our home, Bủm (“Boomy Cat”). The best Siamese kitten in all the land.
And for some context, here we are out and about in the ‘hood.
Will Travel with Toddlers 